Actually, I am a Californian, who, after living here 13 years now, is still not used to hot weather and rain happening (quite frequently) at the same time. I'm thinking this might be better for a top coat over an opaque color, like I often do on our resophonic guitars, whereas the Classic Lacquer might be better over a natural finish, since I often sneak a little toner in with it anyway, to give the instrument a bit more character.Īnyway, at this point I am just another Tennessean, hoping for a break in the weather, so I can start shooting this stuff. More of a clear, or transparent look, I guess. He did mention that the Piano Lacquer has more "clarity" to it. He said some builders prefer it, and some stick with the Classic Lacquer. Was it Bestway, or something like that.?Īlso, I'm glad the Piano Lacquer was mentioned. Joe did mention the place in Madison (TN) where I can buy most of these same products off the shelf. ![]() He knows all the local builders using this product, as well as other types of customers in his territory, and he shares information freely. ![]() Great guy! It's refreshing to see someone (beside all us instrument geeks) that is so into his product. ![]() I'll come over and see what you've done with it. I have some climate control in the shop, but it could be better.īig Joe, glad to hear you already have a bit of experience with this product. It has just been so hot and humid here that I wanted to wait until the climate calmed down a bit before my first run with this new material. Well, I'm not much on starting threads, but I am thankful for this one. All nitro lacquers are somewhat swollen with solvent until they have outgassed sufficiently, but once you have allowed them to outgas, you may find that 5 coats of Mohawk doesn't give you as thick a film as did 5 coats of McFaddens. I don't remember the exact numbers, but iirc, the solids content of the Mohawk and the Behlens instruments lacquers is around 15%, whereas the solids content of the McFaddens was closer to twice that figure. That has consequences for how you thin the stuff, how many coats you need to apply, etc. One thing that you should be aware of if you have been using McFaddens is that the solids content in the McFaddens is much higher than that of the Mohawk. The only difference I have noticed between the Mohawk and the Behlens is that the Behlens appears just a little more amber in color when it is in the can. The Behlens stringed instrument lacquer is almost the same stuff, and when I talked to Mohawk, they confirmed that they make the Behlens, and that it is the same stuff as the Mohawk. I use the Mohawk "Classic Stringed Instrument Lacquer". It looks and works just like it did years ago and is a true nitro cellulose lacquer. We will know over the next couple weeks how we like it, but so far, so good. It works just like the Mcfadden did and that makes it an easy transition for us. We have not buffed it yet, but see no reason to think it will not be fine. We have sprayed about a half gallon so far, and we love the way it works. In addition, they carry other supplies that we use for less than we have been paying to get them elsewhere. It was less expensive than the McFadden and we don't have to pay shipping. We went to see them on Monday and bought some. So, we looked up Mohawk and there is a distributor only 4 blocks from the shop. We used Mohawk years ago with great results. We have given up on McFadden's lacquer and cannot continue to wait any longer. We have been trying to order it for a month and cannot get a response. However, I can't get them to repsond to phone calls or e-mails to actually order the product. We have done everything we can to purchase it from Seagraves and they tell me they have it in stock. ![]() We really loved it and it was easily accesible. It dries fairly quickly.We have been using McFadden's for the last several years. My thoughts on the lacquer are that it does seem to be a harder finish than the Deft I was using. I need a new larger house with an Air Conditioned Shop. I put the guitar in the other room to dry and then I open the back door and place my booth in the door to vent the toxicity back outside. I've had to play with thinner ratios and found that I need it thinned more than 20%. Now, when I sprayed the guitar with the door closed and sealed off from outside the lacquer sprayed just fine. that was disappointing, but I'm not blaming that on the lacquer. So there is a huge temperature clash going on and causes the lacquer to blush almost immediately. The spray booth is inside the house blowing outside through the back door. The humidity and temperatures here are just too high to spray this stuff using my spray booth. Ok, so now I've sprayed this stuff a little bit.
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